I don’t surf nearly as much as I used to about four months ago, but this past weekend I got in two REALLY epic sessions. Me = STOKED, and I am still on could nine today. Also, I got to go surfing with my older brother for the first time in a long time. And seeing as where (back in the day) we used to go surfing together all the time, it was nice to be out there with him. Since graduating college, and beginning our ‘real live’ (working our arses off), we don’t really get together as much, let along surf.
Needless to say, after growing up on a bodyboard and spending the last 10 years on a surfboard, I feel like I am breaking into a higher level of surfing. I don’t know how to describe it, I just know, and it feels amazing. I am pushing myself to higher levels, going places (on the wave) I have never been before and doing things I’ve never done before. All being done consistently with a new found confidence in really critical situations. All of this comes around at the best time of year to push myself to new levels: the very beginning of the winter season….and it is looking like a winter season filled with TONS of swells. One of my main goals for this season is to reach a new level of confidence in big waves, and charge bigger waves than ever before. I feel ready and confident to do this, so time will tell!
-Stoked
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2 comments:
surfing. thats pretty awesome.
This was one thing that I was always disappointed about. When I lived in Hawaii I never had time to surf. I'm glad someone is getting to do it. Being a military transplant I had to deal with high school, drama, all those usual things of teenage years.
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